The spiky, alien-looking durian is famous for its smell. The scent of this fruit, which can be larger than a football when mature, has earned comparisons to over-ripe onions, potent cheese, and gym socks. In Singapore, a country where it is widely available, the durian’s smell is strong enough to get it banned from some businesses, commercial buildings, and public transport.
Needless to say, not everyone is a fan. Even celebrity foodie Andrew Zimmern, known for trying so-called “bizarre foods” from all around the world, dislikes durian. For some, however, durians are the ideal food.
The King of Fruits
Durian carries the nickname “the king of fruits” in some circles, and quality samples can fetch a higher price than almost any other fruit. In his travelogue “Following the Equator,” Mark Twain wrote about witnessing the fascination with “dorian” while traveling in Southeast Asia:
Even today, the enthusiasm for the fruit crosses borders. Durian farmers in Malaysia have experienced a boom in recent years because of the high demand for their crops in China. At a recent Malaysian food festival in New York City, the entire supply of 500 durians sold out within a few hours. So, as in Twain’s day, some people still seem to experience a kind of “rapture” from eating this tropical product.
Game of Thorns
The oddity of durian goes beyond its pungent scent. The spiky husk is as sharp as it looks. The Malay word “duri,” from which the name durian is derived, means thorn. When cutting the fruit, some vendors wear heavy work gloves. The interior, meanwhile, features pockets of soft, yellow fruit. Durian ranges from an avocado-like to a custard-like consistency. Each section has at least one pit in the middle.
Different Forms of Durian
Purists may tell you durian must be consumed only when fresh. Following this advice proves a bit difficult for people in most of North America. The fruit does not have a long shelf life and grows best in the tropics. Most durians imported to the U.S. (roughly 2,000 metric tons per year) are pre-frozen. The fruit is available in Asian grocery stores but rarely finds its way into mainstream supermarkets.
Luckily for durian lovers, and anyone else who is curious, the fruit travels better in other forms. Freeze-dried durian is quite popular; it lacks the same pungency and is crunchy instead of soft. These traits make the dried version a little less intimidating for novices. Durian is also an ingredient. You might find durian ice cream and durian popsicles in Asian markets in the U.S., and the distinct flavor graces candies, cookies, and cakes, where it sometimes serves as a filling along with bean paste.
Perhaps the best option is to order a durian shake from an Asian restaurant or coffee shop. These beverages are often mixed with milk or bean paste and contain extra sweeteners. You might even grab some frozen durian from a market yourself and attempt to use it for baking a cake.
